Restaurant Profile: Colletta

Colletta’s signature 15-layer lasagna is fashioned with precision.
Colletta’s signature 15-layer lasagna is fashioned with precision.
Antipasti menu items like the tomato caprese are sure to satisfy.
Antipasti menu items like the tomato caprese are sure to satisfy.
Diners enjoy a freshly made gourmet pizza and a dish of tasty ravioli.
Diners enjoy a freshly made gourmet pizza and a dish of tasty ravioli.
The distinctive Spumoni Semifreddo Alaska dessert is worth the caloric splurge.
The distinctive Spumoni Semifreddo Alaska dessert is worth the caloric splurge.
Handcrafted cocktails pair nicely with the Italian American cuisine.
Handcrafted cocktails pair nicely with the Italian American cuisine.

A new modern Italian American restaurant represents the first full-service eatery to open at Cary’s upscale Fenton development. Colletta, which means “collection” in Italian, opened in early September and offers an elevated dining experience in a comfortable, warm environment.

An airy dining room provides seating for 120 guests, many of whom will have a prime view of the space’s open kitchen and its striking wood-fired oven. Abundant windows provide natural light throughout, particularly in the corner-situated bar area.

Upon entering the restaurant, you’ll be drawn in by the wonderful aromas wafting from the kitchen.

“We have an amazing variety of Italian cuisine that’s all made from scratch,” said Executive Chef Oscar Gnapi, who hails from Paris and spent time honing his craft in Italy and across some of the finest restaurants in Europe. “I think when people come here, their minds will be blown by the quality of the food.”

A semi-covered patio provides a relaxing space for al fresco dining.

Gnapi finesses traditional Italian fare with aplomb and flair. After moving to North Carolina in 2007, he served as executive sous chef at Cary’s erstwhile An: New World Cuisine, followed by a stint as executive chef at La Residence in Chapel Hill.

The menu at Colletta features a well-balanced assemblage of antipasti, pasta, pizza, seafood, and more. What’s more, friendly, knowledgeable servers provide guests helpful guidance regarding what to order.

Start your meal with some house-made focaccia bread and a dish of assorted marinated olives such as Castelvetrano, Cerignola, Arbequina, and Coquillo. Or consider a charcuterie and cheese plate with cured meats, rotating cheeses, and pickled vegetables.

Executive Chef Oscar Gnapi showcases a whole branzino fish entrée.

Enticing main course pasta selections include black-pepper-inflected tagliatelle with pork tesa, carbonara, egg yolk, and fresh herbs; ravioli brimming with Italian sausage, garlic, red onion, and parmesan; and agnolotti amid braised short rib, roasted mushrooms, pecorino, and herb gremolata.

Gluten-free pasta is available upon request. “You can let us know if you have a particular allergy, and we can accommodate,” Gnapi said.

Signature dish Lasagna Bolognese incorporates a perfect blend of bechamel, Angus beef, whipped ricotta cheese, and basil.

“Our lasagna contains 15 layers,” Gnapi revealed with a broad smile. “We make the pasta sheets and carefully assemble them one layer at a time.”

Side items like balsamic-imbued roasted mushrooms, eggplant rollatini, and crispy potatoes with verde aioli are all worth serious consideration.

Among the half dozen available made-to-order pizzas, the sublime Spicy Soppressata is a soul-satisfying delicacy. The pie showcases piquant, thinly sliced pieces of salami, San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, fresh basil, and drizzled local honey.

“This is a place where there is something for everyone,” said Gnapi, who lives in Fuquay-Varina with his wife and two young sons. “We want to use as many local ingredients as possible, such as local honey and heirloom cherry tomatoes.”

For the popular crispy chicken parmesan, Gnapi uses protein sourced from Winston-Salem-based Joyce Farms. Salads, side dishes, and other specialty offerings will be seasonally driven throughout the year.

Colletta’s open kitchen is the busiest part of the restaurant.

“A lot depends on what fruits and vegetables are available at the time,” Gnapi said.

In the mood for seafood? Order the vinaigrette-tinged whole branzino or the swordfish with lemon, capers, and olive oil polenta.

For a rewarding communal dining experience, choose the chef-curated three-course meal served family style. An “a Tavola” (“hearty helpings for the table”) menu features selections like a tender Veal Chop Pizzaiola and a hearty 18-ounce Ribeye Florentine.

When it comes to dessert, there’s always classic tiramisu, but don’t overlook the exquisite Spumoni Semifreddo Alaska lavished with cherry coulis and chocolate shavings. It’s flambéed tableside. If you prefer gelato instead, you can’t go wrong with vanilla bean, hazelnut-infused black truffle, or salted caramel with pine nuts.

Topnotch libations involve red and white wine by the glass or bottle, draft beer, and craft cocktails like the Classic Negroni and the How Deep is Your Love sangria. Among the spirit-free drinks, try a house-made vanilla soda, a sparkling Limonata, or the Arancione, an Italian orange cream soda.

Colletta is open Tuesday through Thursday from 5–10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5–11 p.m. Reservations are accepted and encouraged. An intimate private dining room and semi-covered patio are available.

Colletta
1 Fenton Main St., Suite 170
Fenton in Cary
collettarestaurant.com
(919) 766-0062

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