Put another mark in the win column for Fenton in Cary, which continues to attract first-rate dining destinations. The latest addition: Brewery Bhavana, a delightfully distinctive dim-sum-meets-craft-beer spot that recently expanded beyond its home base in downtown Raleigh to open its second location.
Debuting in April, the new restaurant delivers an intimate, re-envisioned rendition of the original Bhavana experience. The 2,000-square-foot dining room features copious windows, tables fashioned from reclaimed wood, and ceiling-suspended plants that conjure a Hanging Gardens of Babylon vibe. A can’t-miss Garden of Eden mural behind the bar offers a serene visual centerpiece.
“The space borrowed some elements from our original location, but I wanted to lean into a living, breathing greenhouse ambience,” says Patrick Woodson, co-founder and sole owner of Brewery Bhavana. “My dad is a botanist, and I grew up hanging out in greenhouses quite a bit. I also went to grad school for agricultural engineering, so I’ve always thought a lush garden was a fun design element.”
Owner Patrick Woodson
The Fenton location provides seating for 46 guests inside, while an extensive patio offers al fresco dining for about 50.
An outdoor bar provides flexibility for those who wish to relax on the patio, enjoy the adjacent central courtyard, or avail themselves of Fenton’s sip-and-stroll social district.
“People can grab a drink and go to over to lululemon and buy some running shorts,” says Patrick with a laugh.
Belgian-inspired beers on draught abound in 10- and 16-ounce pours. A full bar features thoughtfully curated wine, classic cocktails, and draft cocktails like the wildly popular spicy green margarita. Beer coolers stocked with grab-and-go cans and growlers make Bhavana’s libations even more accessible.
Core beers range from a tangy saison and a farmhouse ale to a boundary-pushing tripel and a complex stout. Seasonally rotating provisional beers are as innovative as you’ll find anywhere in the Triangle.
As Bhavana’s founding brewer and fermentation fanatic, Patrick says he loves to produce as many styles and flavor profiles as possible and will offer exclusive beers at each location to provide people the opportunity to try new beverage options.
“I don’t want any one beer to overwhelm your palate because I want you to be able to enjoy the beer alongside any number of different food items,” the Indiana native explains. “We focus on subtlety and nuance in our brewing.”
Prefer mocktails instead? Consider the hibiscus-tinged plum spritz or dim sum coffee with concentrated cold brew java and corn milk.
Executive Chef Chun Shi
When it comes to the food, Executive Chef Chun Shi serves as the mastermind behind the restaurant’s dim sum offerings. Hailing from China, she earned a PhD in computer science and for years worked in that field. But when she and her husband relocated to the Triangle area years ago, she chose an entirely different career path.
“A lot of my spare time has involved cooking, which has long been my passion,” the chef says with a broad smile. “With my husband’s encouragement, I decided to go to Johnson & Wales in Charlotte to receive culinary training.”
Following culinary school, she received an opportunity to intern at the now-defunct Ăn New World Cuisine in Cary, first under the tutelage of esteemed restaurateur Michael Chuong and then with stellar executive chef Steven Devereaux Greene. During her time at Ăn, Chef Chun ascended the kitchen hierarchy to executive sous chef. She then moved over to Brewery Bhavana, where she’s worked since the day the original location opened in 2017.
Nowadays, the chef faithfully creates sublime dim sum offerings like steamed buns, dumplings, and egg rolls, all scratch made with precision.
“Dim sum is my strength,” Chef Chun professes without any hint of conceit, adding that she grew up eating the traditional fare in her home country. “I feel like I have a gift from God to make things like this with my hands.”
The signature char siu bao involves steamed buns filled with sweet-and-savory Cantonese barbecue pork. Be sure to enjoy the accompanying house dumpling sauce. Ginger-tinged Napa cabbage rolls stuffed with ground pork and mushrooms are so good you may end up placing an extra order to take home. Pan-fried jiaozi chicken dumplings feature bok choy and water chestnuts.
As for entrees, the crowd-favorite General Tso chicken is among the best we’ve ever tasted, primarily due to the perfect piquancy of the sauce. A vegan-friendly tofu version is also available. Free-range Peking duck also deserves serious consideration, as the renowned Beijing-originated delicacy takes three days to prepare employing low heat. Just make certain you don’t ignore the hoisin-and-honey sauce served with it.
Craft cocktails are made with an assortment of fruits and spices.
Save room for something sweet to complete your meal. Several desserts are sourced from modern patisserie lucettegrace in downtown Raleigh, including the exquisite tropical coconut cake with vanilla cream and mango and the decadent chocolate turtle cake finished with a chocolate mousseline cream. For a traditional Chinese treat, try the ten treasures mooncakes encompassing chopped pine nuts, candied cranberry, sunflower seeds, walnuts, almonds, pumpkin seeds, and more.
In the days ahead, Chef Chun plans to add a whole-fish option to the menu as well as some lighter fare.
“We are thinking about offering deep-fried squirrelfish,” she says. “It is a famous traditional dish where I grew up in the Jiangsu province. I also want to add a spicy vegetarian salad with cumin seeds and chili oil.”
Knowledgeable servers are friendly and attentive, and they will ensure you have a rewarding dining experience.
Situated at 850 Lower Garden Lane, Brewery Bhavana rests beside The Allison at Fenton luxury apartments. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner and offers continuous service beginning at 11:30 a.m. Reservations are highly recommended. For a group of 10–12 people, request to be seated in the Tiger Den, a cozy, semi-private area nestled just beside the main entrance.
brewerybhavana.com
@brewerybhavana
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