Beautiful Beaufort by the Sea

The sun sets over Port Royal Sound.
The sun sets over Port Royal Sound.
One of the highlights of Beaufort is its historic district, lined with beautiful homes built in classic Beaufort Style, featuring wide porches, oversized windows, tabby foundations, and haint blue ceilings.
One of the highlights of Beaufort is its historic district, lined with beautiful homes built in classic Beaufort Style, featuring wide porches, oversized windows, tabby foundations, and haint blue ceilings.
Buggy tours in downtown Beaufort take visitors past historic homes, churches, and iconic movie locations.
Buggy tours in downtown Beaufort take visitors past historic homes, churches, and iconic movie locations.
Spanish moss provides the perfect frame for Lowcountry sunsets.
Spanish moss provides the perfect frame for Lowcountry sunsets.
Live oaks adorn Beaufort,
Live oaks adorn Beaufort, "where the branches kiss the earth and rise to heaven.”
Old Sheldon Church is a must-see on your way into Beaufort! Originally known as Prince William's Parish Church, the structure was built between 1745 and 1753 and subsequently burned by the British during the Revolutionary War. In 1826, it was rebuilt only to be burned again by General Sherman in 1865.
Old Sheldon Church is a must-see on your way into Beaufort! Originally known as Prince William's Parish Church, the structure was built between 1745 and 1753 and subsequently burned by the British during the Revolutionary War. In 1826, it was rebuilt only to be burned again by General Sherman in 1865.
Located on St. Helena Island, The Penn Center, formerly the Penn School, was the first school in the South for formerly enslaved West Africans.
Located on St. Helena Island, The Penn Center, formerly the Penn School, was the first school in the South for formerly enslaved West Africans.
The Gullah Geechie Visitor's Center emphasizes the Gullah-Africa connection through art.
The Gullah Geechie Visitor's Center emphasizes the Gullah-Africa connection through art.
Reverend Kenneth Hodges shows off the art of sweetgrass basketry, one of the nation’s oldest handicrafts of African origin.
Reverend Kenneth Hodges shows off the art of sweetgrass basketry, one of the nation’s oldest handicrafts of African origin.
The Tabernacle Baptist Church was built in 1811. Organized in 1863 as the First Baptist church for African Americans in Beaufort, it is the final resting place of Robert Smalls and the future site of the Harriet Tubman monument.
The Tabernacle Baptist Church was built in 1811. Organized in 1863 as the First Baptist church for African Americans in Beaufort, it is the final resting place of Robert Smalls and the future site of the Harriet Tubman monument.
Not a fan of shark steak? Gullah Grub also offers shrimp or chicken gumbo. served with fresh cornbread.
Not a fan of shark steak? Gullah Grub also offers shrimp or chicken gumbo. served with fresh cornbread.
Located directly across from the Gullah Geechie Visitor's Center on Lady's Island, Gullah Grub offers a taste of Gullah culture.
Located directly across from the Gullah Geechie Visitor's Center on Lady's Island, Gullah Grub offers a taste of Gullah culture.
Does this lighthouse look familiar? It was recently featured in the popular Netflix series Outer Banks.
Does this lighthouse look familiar? It was recently featured in the popular Netflix series Outer Banks.
Arrive bright and early to the Hunting Island State Park Nature Center for a naturalist-led ecotour to St. Phillips Island!
Arrive bright and early to the Hunting Island State Park Nature Center for a naturalist-led ecotour to St. Phillips Island!
White ibis and snowy egrets are a common sight on St. Phillips Island.
White ibis and snowy egrets are a common sight on St. Phillips Island.
The dock of the Hunting Island Nature Center, covered in swirling morning mist.
The dock of the Hunting Island Nature Center, covered in swirling morning mist.
The fog lifts and unveils the
The fog lifts and unveils the "boneyard beach" at St. Phillips Island, perfect for shelling and spotting wildlife.
The Port Royal Boardwalk and Observation Tower provide the perfect spot for dolphin spotting, bird watching, and picturesque sunset views.
The Port Royal Boardwalk and Observation Tower provide the perfect spot for dolphin spotting, bird watching, and picturesque sunset views.
The marsh, as seen from Port Royal's Observation Tower.
The marsh, as seen from Port Royal's Observation Tower.
Upon reaching St. Phillips Island, visitors board a tram to the beach. Stops along the way provide lessons on local ecology and wildlife, as well as opportunities to disembark and hike the interior trails.
Upon reaching St. Phillips Island, visitors board a tram to the beach. Stops along the way provide lessons on local ecology and wildlife, as well as opportunities to disembark and hike the interior trails.
The pink tones of sunset color a flock of white ibises flying over the marsh in Port Royal.
The pink tones of sunset color a flock of white ibises flying over the marsh in Port Royal.
Tourists John and Mary Droske of Amherst, Wis., enjoy a naturalist-led ride to St. Phillips Island. Even on a warm day, it’s best to bundle up for the early morning trip along the Story River, where dolphins often surface beside the boat.
Tourists John and Mary Droske of Amherst, Wis., enjoy a naturalist-led ride to St. Phillips Island. Even on a warm day, it’s best to bundle up for the early morning trip along the Story River, where dolphins often surface beside the boat.
Fox squirrels on St. Phillips Island are either black or salt and pepper gray — and much larger than your average squirrels! These not-so-little guys were moved to the island by the Turner Endangered Species Fund in an effort to boost the population.
Fox squirrels on St. Phillips Island are either black or salt and pepper gray — and much larger than your average squirrels! These not-so-little guys were moved to the island by the Turner Endangered Species Fund in an effort to boost the population.
Plums, a riverfront kitchen and oyster bar, is one of the many bustling dining options in historic Beaufort.
Plums, a riverfront kitchen and oyster bar, is one of the many bustling dining options in historic Beaufort.
Be sure to greet RLB’s Distillery cat, Juniper, at the door before your tasting!
Be sure to greet RLB’s Distillery cat, Juniper, at the door before your tasting!
Looking for an out-of-this-world breakfast? Visit Lowcountry Produce Market and Café for avocado toast, cheddar biscuits, crispy bacon, and a glazed yeast doughnut (served fresh and warm).
Looking for an out-of-this-world breakfast? Visit Lowcountry Produce Market and Café for avocado toast, cheddar biscuits, crispy bacon, and a glazed yeast doughnut (served fresh and warm).

Formally founded in 1711 and known as “the Queen of the Carolina Sea Islands,” Beaufort is the second oldest city in South Carolina after Charleston. The echo of its rich and remarkable history still lingers in the salt-tinged air — columned homes, raised high on tabby foundations, line the streets, their “welcoming arms,” or staircases, directly facing the Beaufort River. Historic graveyards are the resting place for those on both sides of the Revolutionary and Civil wars, and the 225-year-old Beaufort Arsenal now serves as the Beaufort History Museum and Visitor Center.

Whether you’re a history buff, nature lover, cinephile, adventurer, or sun worshiper, it’s easy to be charmed by this “Little Charleston.” Named the “South’s Best Small Town” by Southern Living and “One of the Best Small Towns in America” by Travel + Leisure, there is plenty to see and do — and after three days of exploring the area, we’re happy to share some of the pearls in this oyster shell of a town.

Local History

From exploration to foundation, Beaufort’s history is multifaceted and complex — but for history buffs who enjoy a good story, a historic carriage tour of Beaufort is a must.

Beaufort is the hometown of South Carolina icon Robert Smalls. Born into slavery, Smalls was an American politician, publisher, businessman, maritime pilot, and Civil War hero.

“We were named Beaufort after Henry Somerset, the 2nd Duke of Beaufort, one of our founders. It’s pronounced BOWfort, North Carolina, and BEW-fort, South Carolina. Same guy, we just say it the right way,” said Charlotte Lawrence, a carriage driver with SouthurnRose Buggy Tours. “Both sets of locals are picky — I know because my daddy’s from Beaufort, North Carolina, but my mama’s from Beaufort, South Carolina. So just remember us as Beautiful Beaufort by the Sea and you’ll be just fine.”

The buggy tours last approximately 50 minutes, leaving from Beaufort’s Waterfront Park and winding through the historic streets of downtown. Tour guides offer a deep dive into the town’s history, as visitors pass the longest surviving tabby sea wall in the country and a B&B that once housed General Sherman and Union troops during the Civil War. Other highlights include the Parish Church of St. Helena, once used as horse stables for the British Cavalry, and the historic Tabernacle Baptist Church — the resting place of beloved South Carolina icon Robert Smalls and the future site of the Harriet Tubman monument, honoring her role in the Combahee River Raid that freed hundreds of slaves in 1863.

Despite the fact that the Articles of Secession were drafted in town, the Union occupied Beaufort during the Civil War within a year, preventing the town from being burned to the ground.

“They sailed in on Nov. 7, 1861 with 14 battleships to attack the two forts protecting Beaufort. They kept both forts under fire for hours, and then took a 30-minute lunch break,” said Lawrence, laughing. “The Confederates used this as a great opportunity to retreat. They got out so fast they left food on the table in this town — it was called The Great Skedaddle.”

In addition to a wealth of historic highlights that cannot possibly be contained within these pages, the tour also takes you past famous movie sites from The Big Chill, The Prince of Tides, Forrest Gump, Glory, The Great Santini, and more.

Other historic must-sees in town include the Beaufort History Museum, the Old Sheldon Church Ruins (best seen when coming into town), tours of historic homes (including that of formerly enslaved Civil War hero Robert Smalls), and the Beaufort National Cemetery. Carriage tours are only the tip of the iceberg — you can learn about Beaufort’s history by foot, boat, kayak, golf cart, or van.

Gullah Culture

You cannot visit Beaufort without learning about the Gullah people — African Americans who live in the Lowcountry region of South Carolina and Georgia who have preserved their unique linguistic and cultural heritage over the years due to geographical isolation. The Gullah language, influenced by English and numerous Western and Central African languages, is still widely spoken within the community. The African influence also extends to their crafts, cuisine, folk tales, music, and farming and fishing traditions.

Reverend Kenneth Hodges, who pastors Tabernacle Baptist Church, the oldest African American congregation in the area, opened the Gullah Geechee Visitor’s Center on Lady’s Island almost 45 years ago.

Local vibrant art and authentic pieces from Africa can all be found at the Gullah Geechie Visitor’s Center.

“I established it as an art gallery, but it puts a lot of emphasis on the history and culture as well, so it’s set up similar to a museum,” said Hodges. “We emphasize the Gullah-Africa connection, so in this gallery you’ll find local Gullah work all the way down from sweetgrass baskets, the local vibrant art of Jonathan Green and others of this area, and some authentic pieces from Africa.”

When it comes to authentic Gullah cuisine, visitors don’t have to look far — Gullah Grub, which has been featured in many documentaries over the years, sits directly across the street from the Gullah Geechee Visitor’s Center.

“When I go, I might get something like fried shrimp and shark steak, along with red rice,” said Hodges. “But if you really want to experience the culture, go on a Gullah Geechee tour or attend a festival, like the Gullah Festival on Memorial Day weekend, or just go into the community, speak with people, and learn.”

Lowcountry Adventure

Although you don’t have to be a hardcore nature enthusiast to enjoy a trip to St. Phillips Island (there is a beach, after all), if spotting and learning about wildlife is your thing, then this is a trip you won’t want to miss. Departing from Hunting Island State Park Nature Center, Coastal Expeditions take visitors on a naturalist-led ecotour on a typical Tuesday/Friday/Saturday schedule (summer schedules are tidal dependent).

Beaufort County Bonuses

  • Sands Beach, Port Royal
  • Cypress Wetland Loop, Port Royal
  • Spanish Moss Trail
  • Henry C. Chambers Waterfront Park
  • The Chocolate Tree (favorite of Tom Hanks)
  • Parris Island

“Beaufort County, if we’re looking at it from an ecological perspective, is 50% underwater — so it’s got about 250,000 acres of estuary, and that’s the most estuary of any town on the East Coast,” said Claire Mueller, operations manager at Coastal Expeditions. “From that standpoint, it’s just a really special place. It’s mostly islands, which just means that there’s a ton of opportunity to see a bunch of wildlife during the migratory season or all year round. But there’s really something out here for everybody. We get a lot of kids in the summertime, and they love it. They go shelling and play out at the beach, so it’s kind of like a kids’ playground.”

Owned by Ted Turner for 40 years, the 4,680-acre island was sold to the SC State Park service in a major conservation deal in 2017. Existing infrastructure is limited to trails, a guest house, and a few other additional structures, but a conservation easement prohibits further development. Once visitors reach the island, they board a tram and ride 3.5 miles to the beach. From there, visitors can shell, explore the boneyard beach, hike the interior island trails, spot wildlife, or simply bask in the sunshine.

An alligator enjoys an afternoon swim at the Cypress Wetland Loop in Port Royal.

Commonly spotted wildlife on this tour includes bottlenose dolphins, loggerhead sea turtles, indigo snakes, alligators, bobcats, and a myriad of bird species, including spoonbills, bald eagles, and painted buntings. Fox squirrels, brought to the island years ago by the Turner Endangered Species Fund, are also frequently seen.

Many of the visitors to St. Phillips Island are campers at Hunting Island State Park, home of thousands of acres of marsh and maritime forest, 5 miles of pristine beach, and the historic Hunting Island Lighthouse, built in 1859 and rebuilt in 1875.

“People are amazed because this lighthouse can be taken apart and put back together,” said Lisa Montgomery, camp host and volunteer. “There are cast iron plates, about 1,200 pounds apiece, and they are bolted together. It was moved once already due to severe beach erosion — otherwise it would be underwater now.”

For those who would like a bird’s eye view of the area, Beaufort Biplane Tours offers 30-minute open cockpit flights above Beaufort and the surrounding islands. If you’re afraid of heights, don’t worry, you’re in good hands. Owner Michael Rainey, a retired Marine aviator with over 40 years of flying experience, attended Top Gun, the famed Navy fighter weapons school. Fun Fact: Rainey’s call sign was “Irish,” as his father was born in Dublin.

“The plane is a 1943 Meyers OT, and there were 100 of them built,” said Rainey. “There’s four in a museum and two that are flying.”

An unexpected highlight of the tour is Rainey’s hangar, filled with his collection of flight jackets, modern helmets, a collection of WWI propellers and other historic memorabilia, and (of course) a pinball machine, bar, and a poster of Jean Harlowe.

Drinks & Dining

After a long day of sightseeing, there’s nothing better than having a few drinks and a delicious meal to unwind — and in Beaufort, there are plenty of places to choose
from. If you’re into spirits, Rotten Little
Bastard (RLB) Distillery offers tasting tours
Tuesday through Saturday.

“We are a grain to glass distillery,” said Steve Smiley, brand ambassador. “We source our grains from the Charleston area. On the tour you’ll taste moonshine, vodka, a white rum, a gin, an American whiskey, and two bourbons. The bourbon and gin are customer favorites.” Owned by Brian Fackrell, jokingly referred to as that “Rotten Little Bastard” by his mother, and his wife, Brigid, RLB’s award-winning spirits can be purchased on site or in certain liquor stores throughout SC. While you’re there, be sure to greet the “boss” at the door — Juniper, the distillery cat.

Visitors at RLB taste moonshine, vodka, a white rum, a gin, an American whiskey, and two bourbons.

If you’re looking for an upscale meal in the heart of downtown Beaufort, Breakwater Restaurant & Bar offers delicious seafood, steaks, and other Lowcountry delicacies. Other downtown gems include Lowcountry Produce for breakfast, Plums Restaurant for a delicious lunch on the waterfront, and Lost Local for inventive tacos and tasty margaritas.

For a more laid back vibe, we highly recommend a visit to Shellring Ale Works, situated directly on the marsh in Port Royal, for some of the most beautiful sunsets you’ll see in this lifetime (no exaggeration). After enjoying a cold brew and live music, wander next door to Fishcamp on 11th Street for more waterfront views and fresh seafood — a local best-kept secret.

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