Tour One Oak Farm at the Umstead Hotel and Spa

Fennel, at right, is grown for its blossoms and roots. The tall plant shares space with eight kinds of basil, cilantro, rosemary, hyssop, bee balm and scores of other edible plants.
Fennel, at right, is grown for its blossoms and roots. The tall plant shares space with eight kinds of basil, cilantro, rosemary, hyssop, bee balm and scores of other edible plants.
Alyssa Campo shows off the fruit of the pawpaw tree, one of the only fruit trees native to North Carolina. The ripe pawpaws have a
Alyssa Campo shows off the fruit of the pawpaw tree, one of the only fruit trees native to North Carolina. The ripe pawpaws have a "shelf-life of about a day," she says, and a flavor reminiscent of mango and banana.
Miranda Murphy harvests blooms from pink agastache at One Oak Farm. The chefs at Heron's and the Umstead Hotel will garnish dishes with the tiny, edible blooms.
Miranda Murphy harvests blooms from pink agastache at One Oak Farm. The chefs at Heron's and the Umstead Hotel will garnish dishes with the tiny, edible blooms.
pink agastache
pink agastache
Bee balm attracts bees, but is also grown for attractive, edible flowers that taste of oregano.
Bee balm attracts bees, but is also grown for attractive, edible flowers that taste of oregano.
Photo by: Jonathan Fredin
Alyssa Campo, manager at One Oak Farm, admires the stand of heirloom John Haulk corn. The tall-growing variety must be staked to keep the stalks upright, but the extra effort is worth it. The red and yellow corn yields some of the best grits you will ever taste, she says.
Alyssa Campo, manager at One Oak Farm, admires the stand of heirloom John Haulk corn. The tall-growing variety must be staked to keep the stalks upright, but the extra effort is worth it. The red and yellow corn yields some of the best grits you will ever taste, she says.
Morning sunlight glints through a stand of Gaillardia, or blanket flowers, at One Oak Farm at The Umstead Hotel and Spa.
Morning sunlight glints through a stand of Gaillardia, or blanket flowers, at One Oak Farm at The Umstead Hotel and Spa.
Photo by: Jonathan Fredin
Blackberries ripen in the warm summer sun. The thornless variety is cultivated at One Oak Farm, although wild blackberry brambles can also be seen on the property.
Blackberries ripen in the warm summer sun. The thornless variety is cultivated at One Oak Farm, although wild blackberry brambles can also be seen on the property.
Golden raspberries ripen to a pale, champagne color and have a delicate, sweet flavor.
Golden raspberries ripen to a pale, champagne color and have a delicate, sweet flavor.
Alyssa Campo explains that blooms on the stand of Jerusalem artichokes, a type of sunflower, will grow taller than her. Despite the name, the plant is native to North America, and its edible tuber tastes like water chestnuts.
Alyssa Campo explains that blooms on the stand of Jerusalem artichokes, a type of sunflower, will grow taller than her. Despite the name, the plant is native to North America, and its edible tuber tastes like water chestnuts.
Photo by: Jonathan Fredin
A bee prepares to land on an anise hyssop bloom.
A bee prepares to land on an anise hyssop bloom.
Anise hyssop attracts bees and gardeners, who like its faint licorice flavor and attractive purple flower spires.
Anise hyssop attracts bees and gardeners, who like its faint licorice flavor and attractive purple flower spires.
At the height of blueberry season, the fruit will be used in dishes from blueberry macarons to pickled blueberries. They are also used liberally in blueberry pancakes during weekend brunch.
At the height of blueberry season, the fruit will be used in dishes from blueberry macarons to pickled blueberries. They are also used liberally in blueberry pancakes during weekend brunch.
Netting protects blueberry bushes from hungry birds, and this one had to be cut free after becoming entangled.
Netting protects blueberry bushes from hungry birds, and this one had to be cut free after becoming entangled.
A fox makes a rare, early-morning appearance at the farm.
A fox makes a rare, early-morning appearance at the farm.
Raised beds at One Oak Farm are seen through the fronds of a mimosa tree.
Raised beds at One Oak Farm are seen through the fronds of a mimosa tree.

Located on the 300-acre SAS campus in Cary, the 3-acre One Oak Farm is planted with roughly 180 varieties of herbs, flowers, fruits and vegetables.

“Everything is edible,” said Alyssa Campo, the culinary farm manager. “It’s a little like Willy Wonka, but a farm.”

Campo and her “right-hand woman,” Miranda Murphy, run the farm  — planting, weeding and harvesting nearly year-round. The bounty goes straight into the kitchens at Herons restaurant and the Umstead Hotel and Spa, supplying the chefs with local produce picked at the height of flavor and freshness. Sunflowers, zinnias and other cut flowers from the farm also appear in the hotel gift shop and throughout the facility.

“Some days are harder than others,” Campo said. “But for the most part, it’s really gratifying to know that two people can get it done.”

The farm was established nine years ago to supply the SAS cafes with fresh produce. Its mission changed over the years, and since coming on board two years ago, Campo has expanded the farm by about 50 percent and doubled One Oak Farm’s production. 

When choosing plants for the farm, Campo says they consider what the chefs want and what nature will allow. While that encompasses many familiar plants native to this region, she also tests plants from other countries in similar growing zones. Japanese shiso, sometimes called Japanese basil, tastes of mint and licorice. Mexican papalo has a cabbage-like texture with a powerful flavor akin to coriander and arugula.

“The chefs allow play,” she said. “They’re willing to experiment.”