Worth the Drive: Nil’s and Bellini

By David McCreary
Photography By Jonathan Fredin May 1, 2023

Nil’s Mediterranean Cuisine

The Medi bowl is filled with healthy ingredients like tabbouleh, tzatziki, hummus, baba ghanoush, feta, pickled red cabbage, and more.

Since becoming the owner of Nil’s Mediterranean Cuisine in the Varina business district more than a year ago, Tan Uckan has refreshed the café’s menu and décor to provide a more modern approach to dining. Patrons have embraced the changes, so much so that the eatery nabbed Main & Broad magazine’s Best Mediterranean Restaurant and Best Healthy-Dining Options honors in the 2023 Maggy Awards. In addition, Uckan’s Medi Bites food truck received Honorable Mention in the Best Food Truck category.

The delectable lamb-and-beef pita pocket burger served with fries.

“We are so grateful for all the support from our loyal guests,” said Uckan, a native of Türkiye (formerly known as Turkey). “We have worked really hard to provide fresh, healthy food that is flavorful and consistent in quality.”

Consider the tempting standout menu items at Nil’s:

A lamb-and-beef pita pocket burger with caramelized onions and mozzarella cheese;
Signature roasted cauliflower with goat cheese, fresh herbs, olive oil, and red bell pepper vinaigrette;
A bountiful Medi bowl brimming with seasonal greens, tabbouleh, tzatziki, hummus, feta, baba ghanoush, olives, pickled red cabbage, and more.

If you prefer a spicy alternative, order a taco Turco with lemon-tinged beef and pickled hot peppers or the gyritto, a distinctive Mediterranean fusion burrito.

Gluten-free and vegan options are available. Be sure to ask, as Nil’s can accommodate most food sensitivities.

Falafel with smoked eggplant topped with yogurt sauce and served alongside pita bread.

Off-menu weekly specials have resonated well with regulars. The inventive offerings include fork-tender braised beef short ribs with mushroom wine sauce; pan-fried grouper with roasted vegetables; and lamb chops with demi-glace, roasted cherry tomatoes, and white rice.

A front-and-center positioned display case contains perfectly flaky baklava and pistachio-laden cannoli that are always on point.

Uckan has also added a nice selection of wines from California, Italy, and Spain. Domestic and imported beer is also popular. For a refreshing nonalcoholic option, try the house-made hibiscus iced tea.

New tables and chairs, wallpaper, lighting, and a large chalkboard menu lend a warm, comfortable vibe to the dining room.

“We are now offering live music from 6–8 on Friday nights,” Uckan shared. “People are reserving tables, which is great to see.”

Uckan revealed that he hopes to expand the restaurant in the future, especially since the town continues to grow.

“I love what I am doing,” he said. “It’s hard work, but it’s worth it.”

Nil’s is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Catering is available for small and large events.

: Nil’s signature roasted caulifl ower

: Husband and wife Semra and Tan Uckan work alongside each other in the Nil’s kitchen.

Nil’s Mediterranean Cuisine
513 E. Broad St., Fuquay-Varina
(919) 567-0887
nilscafefuquayvarina.com

Bellini Italian Cuisine

Eggplant alla Fiorentina

If Bellini Italian Cuisine in Holly Springs seems familiar, it’s because the restaurant originated in 2010 in Fuquay-Varina and then enjoyed a stint in Cary’s MacGregor Village. The new location is situated in a strip shopping center beside Walmart.

“Many of our most loyal patrons live in Holly Springs and Fuquay, so we felt it made sense to move back closer to them,” said humble chef Abel Atauchi, a native of Ecuador who runs the restaurant along with his brother and business partner, Adan. “This area continues to grow, so we look forward to serving our guests with fresh, homemade Italian food.”

Rotating specials, such as the veal shank ossobuco, always impress.

With more than 35 years of experience as a chef, Atauchi spent over 20 years cooking in New York restaurant kitchens.

“When I moved to the US in 1985, my first job was working as a dishwasher,” Atauchi said. “In time I learned how to make pasta and other Italian dishes.”

Ultimately, he moved to North Carolina and opened a family restaurant with Adan. Since day one, the brothers have spent their days and evenings preparing, cooking, and finessing food at Bellini.

The expansive dining space features a balanced mix of tables and banquettes and a centrally positioned bar area. Consider Bellini an affordable eating establishment with a refined-but-unfussy vibe. You’ll find cloth napkins on the tables, but it’s the kind of place you can visit for a date night or with the entire family.

Friendly, attentive servers are well trained in the nuances of the cuisine and the libations.

Begin your meal with an appetizer such as the golden fried calamari with house-made marinara sauce; the ricotta- and spinach-infused rolled eggplant; or thinly sliced crispy fried zucchini. Cold antipasto with salami, prosciutto, mushrooms, and marinated artichoke hearts makes for the perfect shareable starter.

Among the half dozen available salads, we recommend the gorgonzola-laden red beet served atop mixed greens with balsamic vinaigrette and olive oil.

When it comes to the main course, a plethora of chicken, veal, seafood, and pasta dishes vie for consideration. Portions are always plentiful.

Stuffed mushrooms

Popular poultry dishes include chicken marsala with brown gravy and mushrooms and Chicken Bellini sauteed in white wine that’s served with fresh mozzarella, roasted red peppers, and Kalamata olives.

You can’t go wrong with any of the veal entrees, whether you choose parmesan, saltimbocca, piccata, or Genovese. ese are served scaloppini style, meaning the meat is thinly sliced, with a side of penne or spaghetti.

The simple penne alla vodka pasta rates as solid as you’ll find anywhere.

“We make the sauce with Grey Goose vodka, heavy cream, and fresh basil,” said Atauchi.

Scratch-made fettuccine with alfredo sauce also hits all the right notes.

The pasta dish that left the biggest impression on us? By far, it’s the cheese ravioli with pine nut pesto sauce layered with fresh garlic, basil, and mozzarella.

“It’s an absolutely delicious dish that everyone who orders it loves,” Atauchi said.

If you’re in the mood for seafood, try the fresh clams served atop spaghetti; seafood risotto with shrimp, scallops, and calamari; or the Branzino Filet Milanese Capricciosa, a breaded and fried Mediterranean sea bass served with arugula, onions, tomato, lemon, and olive oil.

Off-menu daily food specials should not be ignored. These range from lobster tail linguine to grilled ribeye with gorgonzola to lamb shank alla Milanese and much more.

If it’s available when you visit, order the veal shank ossobuco with onions and carrots. The veal is fork tender and will melt in your mouth.

“It’s prepared with red wine, and we cook it in the oven at 500 degrees for three hours,” Atauchi said.

Gluten-free menu items include chicken, veal, seafood, and pasta. All Bellini homemade salad dressings also contain no gluten.

Wine is available by the glass and bottle.

Italian favorites, from appetizers to desserts, are made from scratch and to order at Bellini Italian Cuisine in Holly Springs.

“We serve mostly Italian wine in both reds and whites,” Atauchi said. “It’s good quality wine for an affordable price, and we offer specials.”

In addition to wine, you’ll find specialty cocktails, cordials, and domestic and Italian beer.

If you manage to save room for any of the 10 tempting desserts like Limoncello cake, crème brulée or chocolate souffle, don’t miss the exceptional — and sized to share — tiramisu. The coffee-flavored traditional Italian treat features ladyfingers soaked in Frangelico, Disaronno, Kahlua, and Grand Marnier liqueurs.

“When guests come in, the most important thing is for them to enjoy good food, great service, and nice ambiance,” Atauchi said. “We want them to come back again and again.”

Bellini is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week with continual service. Reservations are strongly encouraged. A private room accommodates 26-30 people (call in advance to book). If you need to feed a crowd but not at the restaurant, family-style meals are available for takeout.