It’s hard to imagine anyone other than prolific restaurateur Giorgios Bakatsias transforming an already magnificent 10,000-square-foot building into a next-level sanctuary of sociableness.
Make no mistake: That’s exactly what the affable Greek native has achieved with Naōs Hellenic Cuisine, his newest eatery in Cary, situated at The Arboretum at Weston in the former kō•än Public Table spot.
“We engage our guests in a way that hospitality and gastronomy are at the forefront of everything we do,” says Giorgios, wearing a trademark hat and looking as if he’s just returned from a pleasure trip to the Balkans. He now has some 20 dining concepts in his incomparable portfolio.
The inimitable Giorgios Bakatsias
Naōs means “temple” in Greek, and much like a consecrated place, the restaurant fosters a strong sense of harmony and community connection.
Guests will appreciate the gorgeous mural of the goddess Athena near the entrance and classic columns in the primary dining area. Elaborate chandeliers shrouded in fabric evoke the opulence of ancient Greek palaces, resulting in a tranquil and culturally rich ambience.
The restaurant’s private-occasion spaces provide versatile possibilities for group events. Inside, the Dionysus room displays a collection of Greek amphoras and pottery; the Demeter room features a gallery wall adorned with sentimental photographs of the Bakatsias family; and the Artemis room offers flexibility for receptions and other special gatherings. In addition, the Perivoli Garden affords people the chance to enjoy a serene open-air setting surrounded by lush vegetation.
“We are well suited not just for date nights and family dinners but also for corporate functions and other special events,” Giorgios explains. “I chose this space because it provides a lot of options under one roof, and it’s important for us to provide a variety of experiences.”
To parallel the exquisite environs, Naōs fittingly showcases elevated Mediterranean cuisine that respects ancient customs while employing modern culinary techniques.
“I want to have some traditional dishes that maintain an emotional connection to the past but then also feature some offerings where we can take an innovative approach and bring new inspiration,” Giorgios says.
The menu features a balanced mix of beef and seafood selections plus slow-braised deliciousness cooked in clay pots. Nourishing vegetarian items and mezedes (small plates) abound. Food is served on colorful earthenware vessels, and dishes are intended to be explored and shared.
“Greek food is honest and vibrant without having to influence and manipulate it,” Giorgios says with a winsome smile while sipping black coffee. “Food evolves every time you put it on the plate, but there must be a level of continuity and consistency. We have an enormous commitment to letting the ingredients remain harmonious.”
As he interacts with the Cary Magazine team, Giorgios is gracious and thoughtful, admiring the various fare and then pulling up a chair and joining what he instantly deems a “Mount Olympus feast” following our photo shoot.
Spread-worthy elements include Calabrian chili-infused olives, melitzanosalata (roasted eggplant) anointed with olive oil, and dolmades, or stuffed grape leaves.
A delectable small-plate option, wood-fired octopus arrives at the table with a perfectly charred outer layer and tender and juicy interior.
Naōs values innovation, a quality that shines through in another noteworthy mezede dish: spanakopita. While traditionally wrapped in phyllo, Naōs’ deconstructed version is more like a napoleon, with three layers of crisp phyllo garnished with sesame and stuffed with spinach and feta cheese.
While it’s not easy to pinpoint the most underrated choice on the menu, we lean toward the roasted beets salad bejeweled with manouri cheese, spiced walnuts, and arugula.
“No matter what dishes we prepare, we can expand on Greek culture and cuisine and have fun while letting the ingredients shine,” says Culinary Director Kevin Draper, who has worked with Giorgios Hospitality Group since 2009, primarily in restaurants like Chapel Hill’s Bin 54 and G Prime Steak & Cellar in Wilmington.
When it comes to entrees, the crackly red snapper incorporates shaved fennel, roasted red peppers, and herbs paired with a satisfying fasolatha (white bean) puree.
The showstopper Brizola for Two encompasses a sublime 48-ounce tomahawk steak with a three-digit price tag, but it’s well worth the outlay. Let’s just say it’s the best ribeye we’ve ever tasted (correction: savored).
“Preparation simply involves adding salt and pepper and then cooking it low and slow on the grill,” Kevin says. “Between mid-rare and medium is what makes most people happy, and we slice it tableside.”
Other exceptional mains include fork-tender beef short rib Giouvetsi imbued with red wine and served alongside orzo; rosemary-rubbed grilled lamb chops; and a hearty bone-in pork chop counterbalanced with black-eyed pea and corn salad.
Complement your meal with a glass or bottle of wine from Naōs’ extensive assortment.
“We focus on diverse regions of Greece but also other parts of Europe and the Mediterranean because our wine cellar is large enough to accommodate a wide variety,” Giorgios reveals.
Prefer a craft cocktail instead? Consider the Nereid’s Lament with anise-forward Metaxa Ouzo Greek liqueur or a Mastiha Margarita, a reimagined version of the classic tequila-based drink that tilts herbal and transportive.
Among the five available tempting desserts, we strongly advocate for the semolina- and lemon curd–laden galatopita, a creamy milk custard pie layered with blueberry compote and tangy sumac. Or, go for the generously portioned Saragli baklava, a rolled version of the classic dessert pervaded with pistachio, honey, and lemon syrup. And we’ll throw in this bonus recommendation: orange phyllo cake augmented with almond gelato.
Sunday brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The stuffed French toast alone is worth driving across town to consume, never mind the egg-centric Lamb Benny bolstered by grilled sourdough, heirloom tomato, and dill bearnaise.
Naōs is open nightly for dinner. Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends.
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